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Byline: Vicki Kellaway

STATUS symbols are strange things. The right shoes, bag, sunglasses... the right shade of tan. They've all had their moments.

But it seems none of them are quite so in vogue as paying a lot of money to eat... foam.

I'm mildly sceptical, I'm afraid. I fear the day when a chef turns to me, laughs and mutters something that sounds suspiciously like "Emperor's new clothes".

(I won't reply - it's rude to speak with your mouth full of chemical froth you know) But seriously, I like to play the Lord as much as anyone so when the chance arose to visit Merseyside's only Michelin-starred restaurant, I couldn't resist.

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I say 'arose' but I had to book our Friday night table at Fraiche, in Oxton, a whopping six months ago - they were in demand and I thought that would give us time to save.

When the big day finally arrived I could barely eat my breakfast for fear of ruining my appetite.

After such a long wait, walking into this tiny restaurant was almost a shock - even though I knew it barely seats into the double figures Two smiling waitresses guided us through a tiny lounge and into a dining space where our table occupied one corner.

Beside us were another couple and opposite just three - seven diners in a fully booked restaurant.

It was like eating in someone's living room, albeit a sophisticated one with discreet lighting, trendy glass wall hangings and cream carpets throughout (brave).

I'll admit the place had that intimate, you-must-whisper feel at first but we soon relaxed - probably because the waitresses were so friendly yet clearly proud of the food they were serving.

We chose the restaurant's six-course Concepts menu for pounds 48 above its three-course Elements one, which is pounds 38.

The wine list started around pounds 19 for a bottle, with some pounds 4.50 glasses, but with one driver (him) and the other food obsessed (me) we coped with a bitter lemon (pounds 1.75) sparkling water (pounds 3) and a pounds 4.35 gin and tonic.

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We had the teasers first - the delicious spiced pecan nuts, the brittle parmesan 'crisp' and a crunchy poppy and maple biscuit plus several flavours of bread bun served with seaweed butter.

But soon it was time for the main event and first up was... foam.

Ah. Except it wasn't really, it was artichoke mousse masquerading as foam - all frothy and green served with hazelnut and creme fraiche.

It was fun and beautifully presented but we wolfed it far too quickly, eager for the light taste.

The same could not be said for the artisan foie gras. We were served a generous lump of the stuff which was much easier to savour. It was gorgeous and it's worth noting the artisan variety of this fatty liver is produced the most humanely.

We gossiped and zipped through the courses but relished all of them - every plate was beautifully presented, every detail perfected.

Frequently, our waitress would announce an ingredient and leave us flummoxed - either because we failed to spot a familiar favourite or because we'd never before tasted the item mentioned.

But that's the whole point of a restaurant like Fraiche. I
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